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Which Defrag also CCleaner drive Wipe help!


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Any suggestions of a solid defrag program to use, hdd mostly contains music and small apps and progs. Some large games, not many huge files but a couple.

Start up is a bit sluggish. Not a old pc.

Anyway I am using drive wiper to wipe all data on one of the partitions of my hdd, there was barely anything left on it, I just did it to clean up traces.

But it has Hung on Formatting F:\ 0% , for over an hour, and in my computer F:\ now has 0 free space 0 used space.

Any ideas, i'm guessing just leave it?

any help, much appreciated ; - ;

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diskeeper pro :) problem solved :P it does it for you i nthe back ground unless you want to manually defrag your drive :)

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CCleaner's drive wiper is not for cleaning the drive, it's for cleaning the empty space to make the deleted data unrecoverable AFAIK. And I've tried it before, it may take days to complete and people have lots of complains/FAQs about it on their forums. So I'd advice against using it as it's overkill IMO.

Diskeeper/PerfectDisk/Ultimate Defrag. They all do a good job. Depends on what you prefer.

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Any drive Wiper usually takes a while to complete.. My 320 GB HD I wiped.. took 3 days running off of a boot disk.. When I got done it was great though.. If you are having problems now with it.. I would guess that the Drive wipe started to wipe files and was interrupted so what I would suggest.. Is using a partition manager to delete the partition.. then repartition and format.. Next I would use a Disk Shredder from either Hiren's or from Eraser by Heidi or PGP Desktop to erase all Free Space.. with 1- however many passes you want for security .. If its a concern always do DoD compliant.. minimum.. if not do 1-3 and be done.. helps with HD health actually...- can...

Another reason it may show this result is that when you shred a drive it is filled with information randomly... so one pass if not completed correctly or fully may show a full drive or missing huge GB of space...( then you have to recover the file to the MFT and start again...even merge from backup MFT, then correct the filesystem errors through various means and poking about ) Had the same thing happen when I tried to erase my Recycle Bin in Safe Mode like I do normally..

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yeap they hav their own defrag tool and it is also available in portable version

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Is defraggler a different independent program, I got the feeling it uses the same defrag utility windows uses and the program is just a more lively interface to view the utility in.

Anyway, the drive is 750gb partitioned into 3 drives, CCleaner does a freespace wipe but drive wiper menu also offers a 'Entire drive "all data will be erased"' drop down option, which wipes data and then free space.

It said 'formatting f:\' because the first step of that process is the formatting, then after I think it wipes free space. I cancelled it, and my F:\ info re-appeared, I then selected "wipe free space" only on that drive, as there was no data on there.

I was making it fresh by trying to wipe all data traces and free space data traces at once, before re filling it with one type of file. (So the hdd is more organised).

So I just formatted using windows, set allocations to highest 4096 and renamed the drive. If I set the allocation to lowest, I would end up with more space, but files would be slower to access, at a higher allocation each byte is allocated over the space that it requires, and files are quicker to access.

Then wiped free space.

I only thought of doing this because in properties it said I had 246 approx mb used on F:\ but no files were present, strangely when I tried to "Wipe entire drive" and cancelled in properties, although it didn't even get past 0% it said I only have 74 approx mb used.

Now after formatting and wiping free space of this 250gb partition (took about 9 hours), it still says I have 74mb used. not that it matters, just made me feel lots of junk was left after moving files.

Defrag query:

Yeah I'm just not sure which one, I don't really want one that is always running in the back ground, unless it doesn't affect i/o or ram much at all, or basically isn't going to counter the point of defragging a drive (speed of file access. via file integrity)

Defraggler is fine. Not sure what I can do about slow boot up, I made it skip stat screens and turned off express gate so the mobo screen doesn't come up. And not sure about doing a bootvis. Should be some reason it isn't very quick,

Barely have any programs on start up accept comodo, SAS and printscreen. And C:\ drive is 127 of 150gb free space.

Thanks so much for all your suggestions.

I'm not that confident in reformatting and all that :P

Edit: oh and cacheman on startup, that could be it. I just use it to display pc usage stats in the tray and a quick way to access processes :P

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First thing is first.. you should take a file recovery scanner...Like R-Studio and scan your drive and see whats there.. If anything you can scan with GetDataBack for ( insert filesystem here ) Select the drive then the partition/partitions and options.. then select the necessary options and when scanned without recovering a single file.. Your MFT and Backup MFT will be joined... This may allow the files to show up..

Also if you wipe the partition or the drive with a good Disk Wiper.. It will literally delete and overwrite EVERYTHING all boot sector files including those in which hold the sectors marked as back at any point which have become unusable.. - which isn't always true.. Formatting a drive is nothing.. I can format my HD right now and recover every file on it and reboot into windows... So its something to think about.. IF I was you and was serious about it I would use a Boot Disc and wipe the drive...maybe even do a partition wipe until its clear and repartition and format outright... and then move forward.. There will also usually be a small section that will not be formatted and a loss of some space on most drives.. but I think this unformatted unpartitioned area is there for a reason..( just not coming to me at the moment ) and I would also change those number back to defaults...( 4096 ) it may be better for FSB and other hardware points as well as a few other aspects.. not really always good for all systems..

File placement... partition to install on and so forth... I would choose your outer most partition to install on.. Then other things on other partitions... Check all of the settings twice to make sure in the BIOS... Then once you have your programs and Windows installed, Optimize your system services and startup.. ( SAS is not necessary ) and you should experiment with Cacheman installed uninstalled.. ( does help in some situations but not all ).. if you have a system which has decent hardware it will be unnecessary and will just be added work for your system... You can also do some checking with Windows 7 Manager to adjust other settings according to your hardware which can optimize how your windows runs.. use and configure UD 3.. first thing... Analyze the drive and move your BootTime Files to the outer side of the drive... This will make them linear, defragged, and quicker to access.. Then defrag the rest of the drive after reboot.. Use a GOOD registry cleaner.. To clean your registry .. then reboot and use the same program to defrag the registry... After this all of your OS file... program files... drivers.. all of it will be Defragged and closer to faster access by the system... Make sure you only are using one Entry in your OS Choices.. or Boot Configuration ( also editable in Windows 7 Manager ) if you have only one it skips the choice screen and added few seconds even if its turned off... and will go straight to booting.. You have be through with your settings and have it right accomplish these things however.. so keep it in mind..

That runs through it pretty fast.. and you should do a scan for infections and other things as well somewhere after all of the installation.. so we know we are starting fresh.. I use all of mine usually when I do...

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I think the problem right from the start is... MSY installed windows XP for me, but forgot I wanted it partitioned, so then used a utility to partition after.

Also they lost the DVD for the MOBO after using it. I have all the boxes, missing the DVDs, woop.

So I want to reformat, as I haven't been confident from day one to put much on here.

I think I'll do it properly. Could you try and condense into step by step considering:

MS Windows XP Home 32-bit SP3

AMD Phenom II X3 720

2x 2.0GB G.Skill Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 393MHz (5-5-5-15) (4gb Less Xp)

733GB Seagate ST3750330AS (SATA)

ASUSTeK Computer INC. M4N78 PRO (AM2/AM3)

And that I have never formatted anything from scratch.

I assume I unplug my Graphics Card now, and make sure my MOBO graphics take over

(I tried it the other day, to see if I would be saving power while i'm not watching many movies or PVKii ing at all but couldn't get the monitor to come up, via my MOBO Dvi connection)

After I sort that.

I remove all Media and Personal DATA files, and store them on an external device.

I either Cut and Paste/Right click Move. Or Copy. And THEN Shred Everything on 2/3 and 3/3 Partitions (With 1/3 being C:/OS)

After shredding Personal/Media Drives with axcrypt? Or ccleaner, or something you recommend. Like something in JV16 Ptools I don't know about.

I will use undelete+ or something simple to scan the drives for remnants.

Then I don't know what I do if they show up. If it matters or if I should just Forget cleaning those drives, and assume when I come to fill it with media again, the remnants will be over written or something.

I then Start formatting My os/C drive.

First I download Drivers for my MOBO, (I can get the Drivers for my GPU now, or later; probably later and just run off MOBO on-board Geforce graphics to actually wear them in (as I haven't used it from day one)

I then maybe get the latest BIOS for my MOBO, and put the Drivers and Bios on the same USB?

Now I Use CCleaner or something of the like to Wipe all data and Freespace i.e. all of Drive C:/, Or do I reformat now, then wipe freespace after I have OS back on?

Anyway, so I clean (C:) so it is fresh, the completely reformat (some how, I don't know) and repartition in the reformat steps (hopefully If I'm not an idiot)

I make 3 partitions again, one for media data so all streaming files are in one drive/Section, all personal documents on another partition and OS on a larger Partition this time, not the smallest one.

Now is: (C:) 150Gb (D: + E:) Optical?/DVD drives (F:) 250Gb (G:) 298Gb

After: (C:) Becomes the outer most Partition you mentioned before (So not C:?) ; which i'm not sure how to setup or what that entails. and may have 250-280 or more?Gb

(D:) will have less that the other two, for personal data/ small files. like 120-150

(E: is this the outer most?) with Media will have 350 Approx?

Now I don't know. I Wipe Traces on All Drives then Reformat (=format, reinstalled device drivers + partition). I guess put COMODO on.

But I don't have the MOBO DVD, I think the drives include EPU I like using (the power managment/ OClock CPU interface)

I don't want express gate or Ai nap, or al suite or the turbo button, meaning I can push the power button and have it OC; I like EPU instead, even though it doesn't recognise my 4850zl-512HGPU

So I guess I just get the basic Drivers, and save all the clutter.

I install all the little apps I use; (like Palemoon or Ffox, foobar. etc) Maybe use boot vis to layout the files utilized during boot to the start of the disk or drive, restart then defrag

(though I have a feeling defraggler just puts them back haha, defraggler just seems to fill my fragmented free space, and not defrag the fragmented files, just jummble them around. erg)

Then run through "ten simple - intermediate ways to speed up Xp" and do the ones I Want.

Defrag Page file forexample on start up from day one? maybe

Then once my OS/Boot drive is of a well organized layout, start migrating my Media back to the other Partitions. One at a time so they don't fragment in the process

and get spun all over the disk moving two separate groups at once? I think that helps, not doing that.

Defrag the Media partitions anyway after it's all on.

And go from there.


I could wack this standard HD out, Buy a really nice steady one suitable for an OS, get a small one so it's cheap like 250-500 GB.

Any suggestions on a HD for just OS? and then wack back in this 750GB seagate. Delete (C:) (now defunct) drive then empty recycle bin like a Luddite

Not care about all the traces of junk as it is away from OS on the new HD, which also means my data is a little more secure from Viruses I guess.

And put up with using a basic seagate to run my Media files off. Probably slower?


* 750GB


* SATA 3Gb/s


* 32MB

Spin Speed (RPM)

* 7,200

Is that Ok for MediaHD ? or more suited to OS?

Thanks so much again for all the input, I should of given a bit more info from the start of the thread.

* Basically I took everything off (F:) as it was Media, Moved it to (G:) as it is the biggest and emptiest partition.

Then wanted to Wipe (F:) would of just wiped free space to begin with, but noticed it was displaying data usage on (F:) now empty. So Selected Delete All Data on (F:) in CCleaner, thinking it would wipe any detectable Deletable Data like that which showed up in Properties.

It showed no sign of even beginning, so I figured it got caught, trying to delete data that didn't exist and just semi-hung, so I canceled and just wiped Free, which went fine. Then put my personal data on a nice semi-Fresh smaller more suitable Partition.

But anyway like I said I just haven't been confident to Reformat, esp with missing Discs. I have my Xp OEM.

Will that still work again on a Reformat, or is it a 'Use only once Validation'.

I know it will install OS fine with the Key, unsure it will allow me to Validate again? Or what ever that Windows Jazz is. Same Pc though, so it should. Only install disc they didn't lose.

Anything I'm missing?

I have a HDD3 Segate 200Gb sATA 150MHz in a 3.5" - Usb Enclosure from 2006, it uses AC plug and I have a USB powered one now. Would that be at all useful in this process, Or just complicate things and use more Power constantly running in my PC than benefit as Space or OS drive?

If I could figure out how to plug it in, there are two Connectors in the box, am assuming they might be useful; or came with the HD itself, not the enclosure ( think it's a wide SATA connector and 4 socket Power Link). But even then I'd have to Wipe it.

So suffice with the one HDD for OS and Media Data; or get a nice fresh one just for OS + Program files?

Is there a way to Install Xp so it doesn't have Common files, as I am the only User, and it is a waste of space and registry entries. (and noone needs to sign in as guest)

Also Sometimes I get a prompt that I need to sign in with Administrative privileges, like in msconfig, but if I OK, OK retry, it goes away and makes the alterations.

Bad install perhaps?

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Okay I am not for sure about the MOBO.. but do not be concerned with the missing disc for it UNLESS.. when you run this disc.. it installs items on the HD.. that you need for proper function and adjusting...

The easiest way is quicker and to them point..

1. Copy and move all personal data and archives onto an external storage device... ( you can probably even use it to hook in or mount to the system at a later time ) but you have to buy something that has the proper SATA hook up.. The HD can be removed from the external housing and mounted in the box.. So you could partition it or simply move your data over onto it as you need to ...

2. IF you have an XP OEM Disk with Label which contains your proper serial and is an installation CD not a Recovery CD..( as most are )... Boot up with Hirens Boot Disc.. and use the one of the Partition tools to select and Wipe all partitions this will overwrite and destroy all data.. ( even if it is able to be seen with a file recovery software it is likely that it would be corrupted anyway ) This will wipe most data from the drive and show nothing to be able to be restored.. all partitions will be removed and upon trying to access the drive again, it will state that you need to format the drive before you can use it...

3. Create Partitions as desired.. OS... Media .. w/e however.. OS being first and other second... and format the drives with default settings.. with the same file system type...

4. Install the OS, and any hardware drivers that are not present....programs and mods.. optimizing and cleaning.. Anything to help XP utilize the 4 GB of RAM ( should consider Windows 7 - IMO) Optimizing can be done as need be...

5. Mount your ' Media Disk ' in the box..or copy them over..

First thing you need to consider first is what type of disk you have... Restore Disk.. or Install Disk..... Restore Disk.. Recovery Disk... it will kill your XP installation when you format or wipe the drive unless you have a partition in which reinstallation files are kept for recovery... Some actually copy those files over from a disk image expand and install... others will not.. and can be more difficult and your getting into a myriad of different configurations and SP's that also have issues when restoring files.. this can be a difficult area..

If its an installation disk.. Then you can install fresh.. if it comes with a label and a serial/activation .. You can do a fresh installation with one of these.. not the other... and really it would seem you have a system ready for an upgrade and a great time to do it.. so IMO opinion.. by a small HD with good speed.. about 60-80 GB if you can find something small.. for your OS... and get Windows 7 Ultimate and installed..plus you will have a real installation disk... keep the other one out of the box/case you have it in and something you can slip back in if you need to.. Easy way around a lot of this..

One thing I am not clear on is ll of these drivers you say you need for your MOBO.. Is that necessary for it.. will windows not install the drivers it needs?..

EDIT: Have you ever looked for Chipset and other drivers for your hardware/MOBO.. in the way of updates? From the company or by doing a driver search..

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One thing I am not clear on is ll of these drivers you say you need for your MOBO.. Is that necessary for it.. will windows not install the drivers it needs?..

EDIT: Have you ever looked for Chipset and other drivers for your hardware/MOBO.. in the way of updates? From the company or by doing a driver search..

I have never installed windows.

Nor updated anything in BIOS, or updated hardware at all.

Windows OEM xp Home edition was expensive (at the time). Comes with product key and sp3. I just mean OEM Means for one PC only, not for multiple.

If I have activated it on this PC, but reformat, will windows ask to be activated again, and thus will I be able to even though it is the same PC it might say this OEM key has been activated already or something.

But anyway, I just read in the MOBO manual what the contents of the DVD were, and they include Drivers, I looked at installing mobo steps and it includes installing drivers.

MOBO Drivers included are:

VIA audio drivers, AMD chipset drivers, Atheros L1e Gigabbit Ethernet Drivers, ASUS express gate installer. I assume I need one if not more of those.

I was just saying that the software on the DVD I don't have is probably not worth downloading, hoping someone would say something like nah Al-Nap or Turbo Key is awesome!

Also as I don't have a DVD, is probably best to download those drivers i may need now, while I have an OS installed?

But anyway if I buy a new HD and just put it in, can I install Xp on that, then run from the fresh HD, then just wipe OS off this HD and keep it as my secondary HD for Media? i.e. 750Gb for media.

New HD, like some green drive or something more suited to OS. I will go back over custom build notes >__<

And why is my MFT so large on every drive but C: ? If I turn off system restore will it go or it is something else? I never noticed it before being this large.

Basically I don't know the steps to Completely reformatting a HD to like new, and they to Reinstalling windows the way I want it.

I.e. As basic as possible. With out this shared documents folder or 'all users' in documents and setttings, as there is no other user and there is no way i'm making two ever, as that is what kills Xp.

If I shred C: with Hirens at what point does it stop functioning. ?_?

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Technically the drive itself should start to not function the second it gets locked for wiping.. then however long it takes.. ( this will usually take a while ) the drive will not be at your disposal.. when the partition and drive has been wiped then..and the files are gone it will be time to use a disk manager to make it operable... These steps are very easy.. I was scared crazy my first time too.. but I had no help in this area..

..and yes.. IF you pull the HD that is 'working' out now .. place in the new one and do an install..THEN you will actually have two OS disk that are still operable.. One that you know works.. and one that is your test pilot.. that will allow you to find out on your own.. about drivers.. and all of the things your worried about.. ( its nice to have that option at your finger tips..) Once you have set up the new system like you want a far as your programs... worked out your driver situation and and everything is running like you want.. THEN .. you may consider going ahead with the drive and partition wipe..

ABOUT the Green Drive.. I would do your research and look into which one is the best drive to purchase.. Some drives out there are not so advisable to buy.. so find something you want... then do the investigation.. by using your search engine.. Look for complaints hardware blacklists.. anything that could be relative to the drive.. before making a decision... Like for example buying a SeaGate Barracuda and finding out later that the model has fault firmware and that many people have had failed drives.. which they have had to replace.. or repurpose... Something that was talked about widely and easily searchable online

On your MOBO.. I could be wrong.. more experienced individuals would have to verify.. BUY.. It is my belief that if in fact your system needs these drivers.. you can install after the OS.. AND in fact it is going to depend on rather they are the best drivers for your system or not... i some cases you may experience better performance from MS drivers .. and in a few areas.. Like for a time for an old HP 360n .. VIA Hyperion Pro 4n1 drivers improved the performance of the machine... as the numbers increased in the versions.. this did not hold true.. and it became problematic... Back then I had no option but delete from the HD and reinstall..Drivers can be a difficult thing and in some cases trial and error.. plus you have to make sure that your hardware and system can keep up with the updates.. as these drivers versions mature... SO you may want to wait on finalizing and optimizing your OS install until you have test and experimented in this area.. IMO you probably will need these to operate normally.. and you may find it could be what is slowing your system down.. IN fact you could experiment with the installation you have now after you install the new one... to see whats more beneficial... IF you don't have the however.. I don't think it will matter but it would be a good precautionary measure to make sure you have covered the bases.. that way there is nothing to worry about.. IF all goes smoothly then.. you my not even need them.. but like I said this area is trial and error..

Compared version of BIOS updates from the manufacturer and make sure you have the correct and most recent version for your system.. Flashing the BIOS is completely separate from an OS.. nothing technically for the MOBO is kept on the HD itself... Its is basically firmware for the board..All of the stuff on the HD is for the HD and the OS...

Activation problems for your disk .. could be taken up with MS... and that would probably better suit your needs/question..

Shared Documents and several other aspects you talk about are actually basic parts of the OS.. for everyone.. How it is killing your installation .. I am not sure I really understand.. Unless you have media in there.. or something else going on... You can actually have several accounts... and all of the files and if your system is operating as it should.. and protected properly there should be no decrease in performance unless .. your files hve been pushed to the inside of the drive and are fragmented.. Plus you have the registry which can also become fragmented and have invalid or dead entries...

Your MFT may be growing in size but it should not be unless your counting Reserved Space... Most MFT's are relatively small in size... so it could also have something to do with a large number of files being on the drive.. or you may even need to use a shredder which is going to clean up the MFT.. This could even be why your system is so slow.. A Large fragmented MFT file is going to be hell on your drive to access.. it should be rather quick.... But the point here is a mystery to me as well without first hand investigating it...

When you shred C: BTW.. you need to shred the whole drive and all partitions... wipe the whole thing... ( why I said to pull all of your data off of the HD ( not off of the partition ) .. You wipe the whole drive.. Repartition, then Format the drive to NTFS.. using default settings... With all data erased... no corrupted data or failed blocks... fresh as possible and closest to being new...

You should not have to worry about anything else.. This is something I never say ..But this process is simple.. Get your stuff off the drive.. Get backups of anything for your hardware you may need ( not to mention it is faster to go from a a drive location( archive on USB or EHD .. ) rather that download install.. blah blah ... Insert the new HD.. and install the OS... go from there.. get it all worked out before your shred the old drive... or do anything to it..

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Thanks, that helps a heap.

I didn't mean it is killing My install. I was saying I don't see the point in shared folder and all users folder, when I am the only user and have ever only been the only user.

So I was thinking when I reformat and reinstall Xp, it may give me some option, or there may be some way I can install Xp without this useless directory, making two sets of data for certain applications.

I.e. I could delete the whole folder and it wouldn't impact on how the programs run considering the Owner Folder has everything. And then there is a useless default user folder... because User becomes default with an All users folder.

I thought first self reinstall of Xp would give me a chance to cut out all the slack I know I don't need. And just have a basic Os, and reformat would wiped of all the old invalid entries (and partitions). I mean I can use a registry cleaner, and file cleaner, and then find something Completely obviously no use to any thing on my Pc,

as it is a program I have been rid of for ages. Not the best example but, for some reason After I removed CA antivirus, I have SAS-hooking into CA HIPS engie umx***.exes, what the hell is that? And I can't seem to remove or delete them. I Block those .exes with comodo and SAS runs fine and the 3 umx exes aren't allowed

to randomly execute and run in my processes for absolutely no reason, but registry cleaners... can't detect the lack of there even being a program needing to run them. >_ <

I've never been through Os install, don't know what it offers or any nifty tricks.

I have Easeus Partition manager and back up home now. So I can Copy the whole disk over to a External. But I mean There is not much point copying say C: partiton over, then putting in a new HD then migrating it back with all the Junk I am trying to be free of.

So you're right it would serve as a good fail safe and even a test drive. While I just reinstall OS onto either a new HD or this HD completely Wiped, having my External as a backup.

Is a boot disc encase you don't have an OS Install cd? I know it is also so you can run utilities before OS starts up.

But would making one be any use to me. Or is it just used in drastic circumstance.

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A boot disc can be used for many things.. and there are a thousand different types... so this would be pivotal on WHAT boot disc.. LOL.. These and most Boot Disc offer a sort of utility of some sort so that you can work on your system and in some cases repair issues that your Install disc will not, that recovery cannot repair .. and in some cases work on the parts of your drive without it being engaged.. or the files on it locked.. My first Boot Disc usage for example .. was BartPE when I had XP.. It allowed me to Boot up and target /remove files and infections in many systems.. that would not otherwise remove because of the way the malware operated.. It also presented the opportunity to do several things I could not while in the OS.. The next one I had was a PC Beginner Disk.. and it allowed me to kill account and system passwords at the drop of a hat... Break through to the system.. and unlock accounts which had passwords in which people could not remember or had been effected by infection or 'Lulz'.. LOL.. which actually can come from several exploitations which have been prevalent over the past years..

Now .. on that note and relative to your first questions... If you do not create a Limited User Account.. and use it for most of your normal usage.. Your hurting yourself.. You should at least have one Admin and one LUA.. There are several programs out there that can be run to help you secure it but it is a good security precaution...

There is no option to stop the system from creating these folders.. and They are apart f the OS.. Leave them alone for w/e sake.. when a program installs shortcuts for everyone in the system it will put them in the ALL USERS directory.. when a system has default programs and settings as well as data and files which must go with each program it will also create these files and folders throughout in the Local Settings Directories of each one.. You can also set it up to offer a set of default shortcuts and data so that each account will have access to only what you say it needs.. These need to just be left alone.. In some cases you will notice.. old directories from uninstalls here and in a few other places that must store information.. These are left behind for settings files that may have changed since the install or personl filles.. they may also be left behind because of file permissions and a lack of a proper uninstaller.. Like most systems these areas can be cleaned by hand or by the use of several utilities available..

The slowness you are seeing with you system could be because you system is calling and running old AV and protection from previous installs which were not properly removed... Really with this much of a slew of problems.. I would consider the programs you have now.. get rid of what you don't consider a priority programs.. and necessary to have the ability to do what you need to do and is essential to the desire function of your computer.. Then make that list and create and installer archive.. When you do your fresh install.. Learn how to address these areas properly.. Install only what you need and make sure your system files/folders/ and other elements are as optimized as they can be.. Try to stay away from making thousands of installations.. Use VB or something or be mindful of the changes you have to undo to keep up with proper maintenance of your system.. other wide your system is going to look like a BOMB hit it.. a mess for you to go through.. full of crap files and folder.. that are not necessary ad your going to run into corrupt installations like what you have now..

A fresh installation will do you system good.. However if your system is running multiple AVs and remnants of them.. you need to run an uninstaller and get rid of the remnants.. This will kill your resources and may be the source of the problem your having..

Deal with the XP Format of necessary files and folders... it is just the way it is.. and for the most part there will not be any informations there which will grow unless you create new accounts.. or do a thousand installs and leave those folder there along with the content.. With these other issues those default folders and files as you call them which are necessary for the SO to operate correctly.. are the least of your worries..

Fresh OS

Fresh Necessity Programs

Fresh tweaking.. Optimizing

Defragging-- Registry.. and move on with what you know now..

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Ok my 200gb 7200.9 has 8mb cache and is slow. So bad idea for OS best left as is.

My 750gb 7200.11 haha, as you say. But wasn't DOA, and hasn't faulted. So options if I want to change are Wipe it and use IT for os, and get a TB+ drive for My data.


Caviar Green WD = Storage

Blue = can have looow cache 16mb cache ok

Black = 100$ 1TB maybe

Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 = 130$ 2TB maybe not

Or stick with Seagate but Barracuda Green 2TB ST2000DL003 SATA3 64M HDD 5200prm

112$ maybe not, but a good buy for an external or internal media.

My mobo has e-sata but not USB 3.0

It is very hard to find a dock or external that has e-sata. erp.

So Green power = Seagate 2TB 112$ faster rpm at write speed or WD 2tb green 99$ quiter at write but slower.

Good solution if I want an external, or storage.

OS options are ridiculous.

WD Black = 100$ 1tb (could be an idea) or Hitachi 130$ 2TB

But that is a more an over all solution and defunct my 750GB Seagate.

Or I can go over the top and get a Patriot PS-100 64GB SATA2 SSD Solid State Disk 64M Buffer for 135$ maybe.

2.5" though?? just for OS

Maybe A Hitachi 500Gb is the answer 39$ ?

or Just Blue 500GB WD5000AAKX 42$ 16mb cache

Have OS and programs on it.

What do you think of:

2 Ports USB 3.0 To PCI-EHub Adapter

So I have 2 USB 3.0 ports in my case, then get a usb 3.0 - 3.5" dock.

Or would my M4N78Pro not like that?

And then I can access my spare HDDs quickly.

They need some sort of HD or memory suited to OS only.

That is positioned to the MOBO for faster than USB access. That is unlike a HDD, but not inbuilt memory either. Some device that is easily detachable.

And then you have something like a HDD suited to Media, that uses no power when not in use, as it is only used to media data.

And then personal data you can have a Multi Card slot in one of the 5.25" DVD trays, that you keep locked in, and can unlock and take out if you want to take it some where.

Such easy things to do. But no we have to advance crap technology step by step, for years. and then something will defunct it as soon as it is almost perfect and then we start again, and the other stuff is junk instantly. yay.

Getting a head of the times with pcs is expensive in that direction, some times comparatively more is achieved going back wards. Just like Open source little applications people make. All the people that work on some huge interface that does nothing, someone makes a half a MB program that does everything you want, and more.

Thinking of buying hardware, makes me sleepy > _>

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Two HD's I would look for reliability and RPM.. Size will not matter for OS and Programs.. unless you have huge program installations like AutoDesk Complete Software shelf.. and Adobe products and others that are higher end.. which have been known to use like 20-30 GB of space jut for the programs... To me its the only consideration..

I use about 30 GB right now for all OS, programs, and mods...and I have Adobe Master Suite Collection installed...with quite a few programs.. The larger your drive is the more to the out side the data will be and then your looking at appropriate RPM's to keep access speeds ... other wise its is going to slow down.. You have some HUGE drives listed.. but for OS and Programs.. try to find something that is new and smaller.. that works with your MOBO and is mountable.. reliable.. is what I would do.. They may not be too many smaller drives out there... BUT.. worth a look.. and could be reasonably priced..

I would save those larger drives for your archives.. and media/personal files..

On the USB 3.0 idea sounds great but if your MOBO and system isn't going to be up to it.. I would check it out extensively and ask in a few places where they might have some more knowledge.. ( right now all the data is making my head spin because I am taking it in too quick.. and don't have the time to investigate it farther.. :P )

The last point I want to make is that many of us don't know the actual life or value of what we are purchasing.. when its new we really don't have any idea of where its going to wind up as a new technology.. We can make good choices like building a custom system.. and research it to death BUT...we can't fortell the future...

IMO.. I think a system really expectation wise.. is to last and be efficient and run as it should for about 2 years.. with the tech we have now.. By then your looking at another new breakthrough introduced in the code and new chips.. software and OSes which are in need of these new aspects to overcome the problem that existed in the last generation of systems..The big problem is the fact that it is not dynamic.. We can't hook in to a better hardware port on a MOBO or upgrade it.. it is what it is.. we cannot upgrade many things to make them work with newer ones.. Economically this should facilitate more residual income.. BUT in fact it is poor planning and a lack of a technology which could .. would solve some issues for the people who use these devices and need them to last longer.. as well as ridding some of the world of these massive dumps which are polluting the landscapes in some countries.. Maybe its driven by money maybe stupidity and lack of a point or conglomerate to come together in a project to be more objective in what they are doing.. Who knows..

BUT its like anything eventually you have move forward or fall behind.. and forget about it.. ( or go nsane ).. Some systems can be quite expensive they are not bought and marketed much ... and they are not sold to companies like TOSHIBA and HP.. who build millions of computers and various other appliances... but it can wind up being something that lasts awhile.. I mean really your way ahead of anything I own ... and will be for a long time.. Just be glad you not sitting behind something that is 10+ years old.. that was built with parts specific for its use.. not upgradable, nor expandable...

Anyway.. Get some rest.. LOL

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Yeah this is my first Own Pc, the old one is still going after over probably 7 years, but has had many upgrades. One day I was like ... um.. why does the Dell say AMD now?

So it isn't really the old old pc, but it fairly lasting the distance. Even now I got it running quite nicely, That pc has had SO many programs and 10x times the amount of programs in Size even now, office and blah blah.

thinking of all the screen saver programs, and bonzi buddy, with SETI running as screen saver when it got some rest from all the most useless stuff I could find. the amount of crap that HDD has seen.

And gaming. And so much music from dial up, and photos from outside in the real world :P that I took.

I remember sitting there, defragging with a program, and the HDD was so full (and it was the times where not one thing could be spared and all else wasn't known) I had to move the defrag from back to forwards of the HDD

until it had room to put the files in the same space (defrag freespace wasn't around or something complicated)

And it is still going after all that almost like new after I took off a couple of big useless things cleaned it and defragged simply, and my Dad uses it every day and it isn't as slow as 5 years ago with all my junk.

And runs HP photo suite all the time (which just to print, is big and useless). Loved getting CA off it though.

This Pc. IS fine; I'm quite happy, but what would I expect I only have 14.Gb of stuff on C: and no programs anywhere else.

I just noticed it takes more than i'd expect to boot up.

The mobo is leaning over to AM3 so it isn't old but isn't new either, it is capable of AM3.

And it is a good board, mid range at the time.

It was a budget build, hence the phenom ii 720.

But no point crapping on about nothing, I really appreciate all your info.

I will definitely be needing the majority of it, and the rest is my fault for being vague.

When it comes down to it, the time should be spend using the pc for creative purposes; so the files i'm creating are actually work backing up.

Not stressing about saving 30 seconds.

I mean today I found the old CRT monitor in the roof, and was thinking, hey I can set that up with my 24" and do my work on it on the other half of the desk while I .... play a movie or something.

But if the movie isn't worth watching entirely... it really isn't worth the electricity. Or space it takes up on the desk. I could either have room to lay a canvas down and do some painting.

Or I could waste a heap of time to set up two monitors and learn how to paint a digital image. I like having the space on the desk, for many things.

I think it would be ironic that a PC takes up more space on a desk than its usefulness (i.e. sitting there playing songs), probably the whole idea of having a PC today is to multifunction with a smaller amount of space used.

That's why they seem so uselss, they may be faster faster faster better better.

But I ask if I had two dvd player and two HDD if I could burn two dvds at the same time. And nooone answers.

Like "why would you want to do that"

The whole idea is to save time!

I barely would need to. But if I needed to save time on some occasion, it would be useful. But if a decent Pc today Can't do that without lagging,

How is it meant to function relatively to the needs of people creatively.

Say, render some things you're working on, and process some raw files from your camera, while you listen to music at high quality. And jot down notes in a word processor while you work on something away from the pc while you burn Cds to take in the car to go take more photos.

When you ask not much of a pc, it can seem there are improvements when you ask it to actually do something without lagging. It becomes as annoying as if you were on one made decades ago.

But I don't expect I need it for any of that, but if it can't do many tasks (i.e. two-four major tasks would be nice) at once not all the time

but Can't AT ALL any time, it can't save time. And so it isn't as useful as it has to be to cover the work put into it, and the material that sometimes, in covering a market base,

is made to be thrown away. But it is a good means for development, the basis is developed just as the fringe or outer limits are advanced and refined.

Still.. the only thing that makes a PC bearable is those making the freeware. And having that there makes all the other things not noticeable.

Nothing is lagging, and things run fine. I just feel I want to start with a fresh hard disc, and windows setup partitions in xp setup, not partitions set up after formatting. Just encase I do start putting larger files or programs on.

For instance I have my first DSRL/ my first camera, so there will be a heap of photos over time. I'd like the confidence I am putting them on a stable PC, and if problems arise; it is something I did last week, not some strange glitchy install from a couple of years ago.

I saw a 3.5" sata hub you put where your DVD goes. And you wack it in like a huge chunky memory card. Haha, when a music file becomes 100GB of raw quality, we will have stacks of old HDD laying around like the huge floppys.

like I want to play

In hyper 3d mind transfusion mode. wack in a 2tb 3.5" Hard Drive

Because you're tired of the 500 PB Games that run from your bones and make you bleed when you're losing.


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Ok so my Seagate has the new firm ware, but is one of the 4 older models that were affected.

I think if made in 2008 or something.

(just encase anyone is worried)

Drive Family Models Affected

Seagate Barracuda 7200.11





Firmware Affected

SD15, SD16, SD17, SD18, SD19, AD14

Hm if a Green Barracuda has a Interface SATA 6Gb/s and my mobo only has SATA 3Gb/s, will it just cut down, or not work?

ST31000528as is a Seagate 7200.12 1TB 32cache. for 59$ or the ST1500DL003 is a Seagate Green 1.5TB 64cache 5900Rpm for 89$

The not so green is Two platter, the Green is 3 Platter.

= 30$ for an extra 500GB + extra 32cache - (minus) 1300Rpm and about 4.8 watts less.

7200 being 5 idle - 10 peak and green being 4.5 idle - 5.8 with lower start up.

or for the extra 30$ I could get a hub, to use with my 750Gb as back up storage? but also as a semi-portable

When I bought the build together I tried for everything low power, i.e. 500W earth watts Antec PSU. Asus MOBO is green featured filled to I think

Anyway one query, If I want to run from my MOBO onboard graphics, do I have to detach my GPU from Pci-e or can I just unplug my display from it, and it will automatically disconnect itself from running?

While i'm not doing much in the way of multimedia, it is stupid to have this loud fan going.

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On the graphics cards I am not for sure.. it would seem that unplugging or disconnecting would the best advice though.. All I remember about some graphics cards is that some will bypass the on-board the on-board and some will rely specifically on it... and some have options to do either...If its an upgrade you have done.. and just in case.. I would disconnect and remove it before the install so that you are sure to have the drivers..( in case f a problem.. the system doesn't just crash... and may use the other.. because it whats left to use.. Then afterwards the drivers can be downloaded and installed for the new one, after you attach the new hardware.. Fans can be a great deal annoying... and if you ever upgrade to another OS.. Like Vista and 7 the DirectX capability is going to be a factor as well as the size of the GPU.. This can also help your performance system wise...

On the drives.. Sounds great.. except you may get better speed for backing up with the disk mounted.. so you may want to some of the transfers with it mounted in the box.. versus on the USB..

I applaud you for being environmentally responsible.. but this area will be your decisions.. RPM's vs. Green Computer.. and performance.. Being that there isn't a huge difference personally I would say you lose too much for the gain..( referring to losing RPM and little power savings.. ) BUT this may also be relative to the PSU and it capability as well...

Anyway looks like you are close to being ready to embark.. LOL

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Anyway looks like you are close to being ready to embark.. LOL

hahah yeeeah.

I took the side panel off today and went through every connector to see how they set it up.

Broken large pin on case fan that is preinstalled by antec, so it has 3 of the 4 pins fixed, but seems to be ok, has been that way till I noticed it just now so must be allllright.

I'm a little confused as to why the top DVD has 5- wires into it's sata power connector. And the one under it has 4. (minus the orange one the HDD has also 5).

And why they didn't use the 5wire 4 pin sata power cable just down the same cable. It has 4 socket connectors split off the same standard cable from the 500w earthwatts, also pre installed.

I saw a IDE cable that came with the MOBO, and it said that the End one is used for One HDD and the second one up for raid (I don't get this cable select = master end connector slave middle connector//or// master-slave black or grey (not cable select))

But that is the IDE data cable and isn't really relative to the sata power cables used to power DVD and HDD (not the same idea?)

So I don't know why they only used the end connector. Makes a mess of cables in my PC that's all I know. Re organised.

Disconnected the front panel connectors and added a little qconnector asus adds in to make it easier, but I did it just to be familiar and also make it easier to pull out if I decide I want to disable the Hd LED or front buttons, case manual mentioned every front panel connection apart from the speaker (4socket2 pin) lead from the front panel.

It already has a High Def audio connector from the front panel going to the other side of the MOBO, but I left the 2pin one in, (near the pwr leds)

It must be something to do with how VIA-HDeck automatically detects when I plug headphones/mic into one of the two sockets (I think so hence the two wires but 4 socket/pin connector).

Which I need, as I have it auto detect a auto cable I plug in from across the room to my amp and other speakers, and have it then disable the back panel speaker-out, or have both run; so many speakers 2 amps, either way.

I think the PSU has two of these 5 wire SATA power cables with multiple sockets along the wires (splitters) my HDD has one just down from it using the end one. Or is it for raid, so both HDD are getting the same Volts, not having different things on each wire cable?

But If I can use that for another HDD (not raid) it would save sourcing another whole cable from some where for another HDD.

Then I can cut all their cable ties and reorganise it a bit better.

the mother board has sata 1 - 6.

1-4 are apparently sata mode and all used up atm. the Two left 5-6 are black sockets and "AHCI mode or RAID" only.

Does this mean I would move this HDD from socket 1 and put it at 5 with another HDD at 6 if I wanted to used RAID 1.

But then it says "chip set limitation, when you set any of the SATA ports to RAID, all SATA ports run at RAID mode simultaneously".

Would this be referring to 1 of 1 - 4 in bios being changed from sata more to raid as 5-6 are already raid?

What happens to DVD players if all SATA ports are raid.

I'm thinking 5-6 raid1 HDD if I ever need to, then 1 and 3 DVD and 2 front panel eSata. and 4 can be spare. If 1-4 stay operable/not raid.

It is a shame I only have 1 Pci-e x16 2.0 slot. There are 2, Pci-e x 1 but something like a usb 3.0 add on uses Pci-e x16 i'm pretty sure.

My 4850 radeon is out, and the on board have taken over. Funny the MOBO built in graphics (gforce 8300) are Direct x 10 and my GPU is Direct x 10.1 It isn't looking bad at all on a 24" HD monitor at 1920 x 1080 60hz.

The extra ram on the radeon doesn't seem to have been helping much with basic pc speed. I mean I am doing a virus scan and it is fine, just less a heap of noise. And I am running in Power Saving mode in EPU. Which volts/watts down everything, from the MOBO; HDD, CPU and fans.

But then I have to ask... the fan that comes Preinstalled to the/my Sonata III is a tricool, which means 3 settings on a toggle just by the fan.

I think the only noise I hear is the CPU heatsink fan and yes the TriCool fan is running despite bad pin by build team, when I bought the build together.

And it is verrry smooth running.

But anyway so it says to connect the TriCool fans (tiny two wire) large 4-pin Male connector, (it specifies male because the connector from the fan is Male and Female, the other side is open and 1 of the 3 pins is lose so is protruding out the socket side and inward at the male side) to a large 4-pin connector (from the psu i guess). It has been connected to the middle of a 4wire(so 4 in 4 out) 4 socket cable, the end is probably attached to nothing looking at this wad of ends and cable.

They (build team) have added in an adapter/extension to one of the PSU cables for some reason, I think because when I asked for 2 DVD optical drives they forgot and had to install one later, and had already tied up the cables so just connected a SATA power extension to one of the middle sockets of a 4 wires 4 socket cable (i.e. having 4 wires in 4 out so 8 but a 4 wire line) not having a 5wire extension handy or something; hence why the second DVD only has 4-Wires not a 5 wire with an orange that the PSU offers. Anyway too much info I will rephrase.

The Chassis tricool is connected by a 4 socket plug; yet there is one of these 4-socket cables in the case, but at the end it has a small 4 pin socket. Can I connect the fan to the PSU with the Large 4 Socket plug on this particular cable, and then use the (4 pin socket) little plug at the end of that 4wire cable to connect to the MOBO Cha-Fan1 +12v 3pin connector? The only 4 pin +12v connector is for the CPU-fan. Which I now notice is making all the noise, wonder if it was the GPU after all.

Anyway so If I have the Chassi-Fan connected to the PSU and the end of that cable connected to the MOBO Cha1 3pin connector, will it be able to be altered in apps or is that stupid or is that what the cable is meant for.

Running a cable from the PSU into the mobo (even a little 4pin socket one) into the place where the fan is meant to get it's power with no PSU power makes no sense.

But I'm trying to figure out how To connect the fan to the mobo considering the fans connector is a large 4pin socket.

It specifies in the Case manual if I do have a fan control device, to set the Tricool on high, as it might not have the volts to start.

Control device I guess means powering it from the mobo and not the PSU and have the MOBO epu or OC apps alter it. Or I can just use the three settings offered, when I think it is running hot.

I need to figure out why this extension cable is in here. If it is just for the extra DVD that is stupid considering all the sockets and wires in here from the PSU; the PSU offers two PCI-e exclusive power cables, so I think it is pre-equipped to run two DVD optical drives and a HDD haha. so many cables! The 24-Pin and 4 pin +12v mother board power cables and front panel are the only ones layed out at all well, and make sense.

I read about the little jumper caps, they were interesting; i.e. using a USB to wake up the pc; or disable keyboard wake up by shifting the cap one pin over. Flush DRAM > _> I won't be going near that one.

What is usb1112, usb910, usb78, usb56, I know it is sockets on the mobo for additional Usb ports and that the front panel is attached to the USB78 one, but do they differ, why not just 1, 2, 3 ,4. Should I move it to a higher number?

But yeah my real query is, about that the HDD and DVD are connected via an end socket of a cable, can I use one of the other sockets on the same cable to power 2nd DVD (on the 5-wire sata power cable with the other DVD)? or 2nd HDD (on the one with the other HDD)?

Or will it cause some power lack.

Here is someones run down of the PSU cables and their connectors....

Type of connector: Antec EA-500

ATX connector 24

2 x 2 12V connectors 1

2 x 3 PCIe 2

8-pin Xeon/EPS connector 1

6-pin Xeon/AUX connector 0

5.25" Drive connectors 6

3.5" Drive connectors 1

SATA Drive power connectors 4

Fan only connectors (thermostatically controlled 12V only) 0

Looking at it now I should have just brought the parts home and put it all together my self.

Basically it seems you pay someone to grantee you don't get a bent pin on your CPU.

As they can't sell you a Pc that doesn't. . .

But at least if you do it yourself, you know everything else is done well. So you put a CPU in, put some paste on it, clip on the heatsink, and the rest is labeled sockets and corresponding pins, and RAM slots, then you turn it on, and put in a cd, then you turn it off and add a GPU now knowing the screen works. (as long as you've done some compatibility research, which consists of clicking maybe 3 links on MOBO page.)

I'm guessing Motherboards have become user friendly?

In speccy the mobo doesn't feature a heat but the mobo graphics do :P are at 46-47 Celsius.

I noticed turning the tri cool up a notch did cool things down, now the HDD is below 40 and the CPU below 30.

And on the green note, put it this way, that 5w could be used to power another tri cool fan (which runs at 3.9w max), that I could mount behind my "green" HDD that doesn't need it because it is cooler and isn't heating up the case. And two platter reads faster, so the 1300rpm advantage difference drops a littleee, but a huge cache on the green means it is probably always catching

up to some lag. Unless it means it can hold more info for transfer or something.

I moved my HDD to actually be near a vent not hidden up behind the front panel.


What would happen if I bought a fresh HDD today turned my PC off and took this one out (disconnecting two cables and tray screws) and put the new one in. Would some info stored in ram try and run, or would the MOBO just think it a new install, and go through the OS disc boot prompt?

And If I turn off put the old HDD back in(sata 2 or 3 in sata mode not raid that I was querying) and turn on will it need reformatting or just access it like everything on there is DATA, as booting from the new HDD, even the old OS files just as data?

Would they become inactive, or when I plug it in, would they try to hook in to the boot, or the mobo or something. Or would it just use the new HDD now, and let me wipe C: partition of the old one, with no troubles, and then let me unpartition, or alter the partitions with something like EASEUS partition master.

The lazy way around it seems, but then with OS on the new HDD, I could completely wipe this HDD and maybe even replace it in Sata 1 and reinstall OS on that one, with the new one removed. With the old one less all the minor file clutter and bad entries or configurations since first install of XP.

I downloaded the latest BIOS for the MOBO but also for the GPU and downloaded drivers I may need some time or another.

Interesting thing is that my Phenom IIX3 720 (HDX720WFK3DGI),2.8GHz,95W,rev.C2,SocketAM3,Triple-Core has been supported on my MOBO which is revision 1.02G since BIOS0705

and my BIOS on the mobo are quite before that. Guess that means an update is a good idea.

My Radeon GPU is 120 watts I think. But I wonder how much more power my MOBO is using with on board graphics. Or if the heat ( = watts wasted) is much different.

I also wonder if the whole culture of being on the pc late at night, and not the day time, is an instinctive energy saving/mechanical efficiency inclination of the PC enthusiast.

ON that Note, i'm going to bed.


I still think piriform and comodo should conceive; maybe called Comform Guardian program, which simply is CCleaner which is only needed really because of the internet just like AV or a firewall, and the ccleaner options would rid the need of a spyware section. But also have a Speccy like section or integration, and having safe guards itself as your firewall+av means it is probably the safest place to be viewing your PC Specs in detail. And it wouldn't be hard to wack in some sort of defraggler HDD realtime monitor, just like the connections monitor but showing a display of your HDD layout, or just a health bar or something, considering it's freeware and they are both Champions of the field.

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Okay first question I really picked up on ( I should have you build me a PC ) .. I am better looking at this sort of thing.. LOL.. with it in my hands.. :rolleyes:

EDIT: and be careful about plugging things in to places.. before you are sure about it.. I got antsy just reading it up there for some reason without thinking about it.. like I was there or something.. Just be careful.. LOL

First question I piked up on was abut the HD.. When you pull the HD out that you have the OS on now.. and put in a new one.. depending on your BIOS settings to boot from CD or HD.. it will state no OS found.. or nothing at all.. The process then would be to insert the installation CD.. and then Boot with it in the boot order.. Once you do this you will be taken through the steps to install Windows.. It will allow you to choose where to install and to format or partition ( in some cases ) a Disk.. for the installation of said OS..

NOW.. the fun part is when you can add the new HD in second..install w/e OS.. and also boot from it as well.. The problem here is that you installed to C: and when you did there could be program registry entries and entries within Windows that will cause it to fail.. so to keep it in working order you have to keep it in the location it is in.. Then add the new HD and install XP fresh or Windows 7 Ultimate or something.. When you do this the OS will be added to the OS selection screen which you probably don't see yet or now.. OR with Vista or 7 you are going to have another Boot Manager take over and offer to boot from older versions of Windows.. where you can boot from 7 or XP or w/e... If things were all relative then you could just move the drive and add it to the OS list.. in the new installation.. this I am not clear on and it would include some trial and error on my behalf to know for sure.. but sensibly speaking.. I would be willing to bet on it having to stay at C:.. I am the guy tht will pull all the data off.. shred the disk put them in best selected for running the OS.. the OSes how I want.. and ask no questions about it later.. then move my stuff and install programs do my thing.. and be done..

The new installation should be quite easy though.. BUT the main thing is to think through what you want to do.. how you want to set this up.. and if your doing XP Reinstall and trying to fix the HD you have now... I would simply insert the new HD.. first in line and do a fresh install.. then wipe that old HD.. and correct the partitioning and formating.. and use it how you like if no problems are observed...

To do this.. to even get to that point.. with what yo know about your computer and building it... I would go through and do your housekeeping.. get it like you want and do your investigating.. of course documenting the reverse engineering just in case there is a reason they did it this way... GET your BOX.. in order in other words.. :P then decide what you can do.. if you can do it... and to what extent... and how.. then add the hardware.. insert disk.. Boot.. and onward..

Gotta get some rest now too..

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Isn't C: the usual place to find OS?

The place I bought the PC is a semi-wholesaler, I also purchased Xp home. (I like basic OS). And then payed a build fee, or I would be the one to have set all my bits up,

instead of buying a PC, It would have been buying parts. So they installed everything. And hooked it all up. I was just seeing how why they did and what cables they used to give me an idea.

But I will look around to see why there are sockets along power wires and what they are used for. All I came across about the orange wire is that is is 3V or for 3.3V and something about hot swapping.

Don't worry I don't touch anything, I am over cautious and over careful with valuable (even if costless) things, to the extent I don't enjoy using them sometimes.

Even second hand things. saying that, I did try and unclip the heat-sink to vacuum it BAHAhahahha! But it was a plastic vacuum, no static.

I gave up though not sure if I would have to reapply some thermal paste or something to the cpu underneath, if as disturbing it, so quickly reclipped without moving the heatsink. It was dusty though >_ >

OK so usb 3.0 is 6gb/s, but sata is only 3gb/s

and a green seagate uses 6gb/s sata but my mobo only has 3gb/s interfaces.

So if I get a usb 3.0 port via pci-e and usb 3.0 hub, with a 6gb/s interface HD, this means what?

Since HD only has i/o data tansfer rate of 600mb/s max, and read write is usually much less, what does having a 3gb/s vs 6gb/s sata cable interface even entail?

Let alone usb 3.0, it is hardly going to BOOST the transfer just because it CAN carry 6gb/s vs 3gb/s when the drive doesn't write or read that fast?

I mean, i'm not sure what the deal is, with usb 2.5"/3.5" 3.0 HD hubs, is it getting ready for SSD/ HDs transferring TB in a minute or something.

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Probably the MOBO was built with that in mind and would probably be the next step.. but like you said you have limitations and bottlenecks in other areas.. which could be the cause of an issue later on.. on being able to step up.. so what you know now can help in the future.. ( why some people spend a couple thousand on a MOBO.. in some cases... So some of you upgrade ideals may be unnecessary or a waste...depending on the use.. and to actually achieve it you would buy something which has the capability integrated.. ( with proper theory in mind.. :P ).. Those rates however could apply differently depending on what they are applying to in particular.. I would have to look it up to be precise about it.. AND.. it also may simply be that to achieve those rates the only way is to step up to next level capable .. which would be something that tops out at 6 GB/s... so its actually unlikely your going to max that out with the technology we have at this point .. but in the future.. you could have ten drives running it at 600 MB/s without a problem.... and/or even other devices which are sing it.. you have to add all of the maxes which would/could be simultaneously run.. to keep from causing an error.. of some sort.. Besides that HP has come out with something that will be better than even 3.0..

..and yes C: is the usual place by default.. but not always the only.. :D

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