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xion 1250 watt pwr sup died after pwr failure - dam!


heynoi

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Happy New Year! - Hope you have lots of juice throughout the New Year!

I just started the computer and just before the windows screen the 120v power went out.

When it came back on... NOTHING! The 'xion" is dead!

I opened it up and I'm looking for a fuse or visable damage - Nothing!

Can you guys recomend a good replacement for me? I'm not sure I can fix it.

Thanks - Heynoi!

****************

This is $40 less than the Silverstone http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3973822&sku=T13-1106

Somestimes saving $40 can cost alot more than $40... here is a pic of the crap PSU...

post-15461-0-95117200-1325552487_thumb.j

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have you verify its the power supply? as in connected another one of the computer? did you use a good power surge protector? it is still working? if not check fuse. if power surge dead plug cmputer into wall and try it. some power surge protector have a reset button. inthe usa power surge protectors usually have a warranty for proecting whats conencted to it. dont power supplies come with a fuse too? might have to open it up though :(. how much for another power csuppoy? did you need a 1200 watt one?

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here's an --> interesting read <--

if you paid roughly the same price, then you're most probably ripped off.. investing on a branded and more quality piece with roughly the same price, but on a "lower but more true rating", would have suffice for any rig.. so sorry bro, but getting a more established brand will help in stability and even warranty..

even my lowly PSU is all well and good on my rig, and we do experience a lot of power fluctuations and outages in a month..

if the price is just too good to be true for what it actually advertisers, then it most probably is.. :(

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Thanks for the help...

I ripped open the crap power supply - didn't see a fuse... what 850w PSU would ya'll say is a good deal these days....?

The phone is in my hand - ready to order.

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it should have an internal fuse, otherwise all your hardware could screw up if there is a power fluctuation ect... take a pic of the circuit boards, there are many shapes and sizes out there. lets see if we can solve this first before spending money if you dont have too. some are soldered on, but maybe you will be lucky.

from xions website:

Output: +3.3@24A ,+5V@30A, +12V1@20A, +12V2@20A, +12V3@20A, +12V4@35A, +12V5@35A, +12V6@20A, [email protected], +5VSB@5A

all those different output sources, there are probably one fuse for each... fuses typically are rated in AMPS. and if there aren't any fuses, id get a new one because its not safe to have open current running through unchecked in a power supply nonetheless.

here is one for example:

electronics_fuse_pico.JPG

you see the little 5A?(amps) 250V(volts, obviously) look for that. google is your friend to look for different types.

you may know this already but its good info all the same.

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Thanks for the help...

I ripped open the crap power supply - didn't see a fuse... what 850w PSU would ya'll say is a good deal these days....?

The phone is in my hand - ready to order.

here is a great PSU. I have it in my rig. Falcon NW also uses these in their MachV series computers.

http://www.silversto...id=319&area=usa g/l

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Output: +3.3@24A ,+5V@30A, +12V1@20A, +12V2@20A, +12V3@20A, +12V4@35A, +12V5@35A, +12V6@20A, [email protected], +5VSB@5A

i really can't help myself, but really guys.. do you possibly even really think that those rails actually output that much amps on the 12v rail at that price? and yeah, a silverstone, a PC Power & Cooling, an Enermax or even an OCZ like mine is all good..

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Outputting that many amps is rather trivial. A more serious limit is the current rating of a connector. Due to that limit, each yellow wire can only conduct a maximum of 6 amps. Notice multiple yellow wires to conduct that full current.

Electronics damage is almost never visible. Therefore informed techs and engineers use test equipment. A tool used even by electricians and car mechanics is the multimeter. A tool so simply as to be marketed even to 14 year olds in Wal-mart or K-mart. And a tool that would even verify the integrity of that PSU fuse.

No fuse is on various DC outputs. Nor need there be. All power supply outputs can be shorted together. The supply powered on. And no damage must result. Intel's ATX standard even defined how large that shorting wire must be. Because shorting all power supply outputs without damage was routine in any properly designed supply even a decade before PCs existed.

Asking for a power supply based in watts is what so many computer assemblers do. Wattage is irrelevant. Relevant is current for each DC voltage.

Most every computer works fine with only a 350 watt supply - if those current numbers are correct. But when computer assembles do not even know electrical basics, then many will recommend a supply that has maybe twice the necessary current. Then a computer assembler need not learn anything about electricity.

Very doubtful you need anywhere near 850 watts. But do you know what current each voltage requires? Probably not. A 500 watt supply is probably more than sufficient. 850 watts massively oversized. If you computer consumed that much power, then it is also as hot as a four slice toaster.

And finally, the original question. How to select a supply. A market with many consumers without electrical knowledge means dumping supplies (missing essential functions) is profitable. A decent supply will provide a long list (maybe one page) of numerical specifications. No spec numbers is how to keep the better informed from identifying inferior supplies.

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